BARCELONA -- Second only to the Alhambra on my must-see list for this trip is La Palau de la Musica Catalana, an architectural marvel. I was elated to find that a concert would take place during my visit. I was less elated on concert day when it appeared that it would be an organ concert.**
But it turned out that it was actually a concert by I Musici, a masterful chamber group, which featured an organist for just two pieces. The concert was incredible, one of the musical highlights of my life. The venue, the performance, the selections, everything about the experience was overwhelming.
The 11-piece group doesn't have a conductor but they play with astounding precision. I enjoy watching musicians interact on stage, and they had some kind of code that told them when to start, what the tempo is, and all the dynamics. Just the way the principal violinist inhaled, or drew his bow, was some kind of secret signal. This violinst played with his whole body, even his knees.
I know nothing about violin technique, but I was in awe of how he played so sweetly, yet emphatically. His instrument could be heard above all others, but not at their expense. I guess this is why they made him first chair.
My seat was close enough that I could see all the players' hands, and every one of them had beautiful hands. To think of the hours of practice and all the years of instruction they undertook to learn not only how to play, but also how to communicate what is beyond the printed page! Stunning.
You could see that the musicians were stunned by the physical space. I can't imagine what it was like to look out into the venue (although I got a glimpse thanks to a video that was part of a tour the next day). During the applause, sometimes the performers looked up and around, taking it all in. It's easy to understand why: behind them on the stage were 18 muses, sculpture busts that jutted from the walls, with mosaics for their lower bodies. It's a marvellous sight, as if there are more performers -- or angels of inspiration -- alongside the players. I've never seen anything like it.
During the intermission interval I went into a nearby salon, slack-jawed. This was one of about two dozen times that night I contemplated how lucky I am to experience such magical, beautiful things.
Then among the crowd I recognised a man from a house tour earlier in the day. Of course I had to go over and check -- indeed, it was the same guy from Casa Batllo. He is a graphic designer from NYC on holiday in Spain for two weeks (!!) We agreed on two things:
(1) Casa Batllo was unlike anything we'd ever seen.
(2) The trip has been a sensory overload.
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** It's hard to get excited about watching someone play the organ. Exceptions: Benmont Tench of Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers, Ray Charles.
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